The Moth Stopper Flacon is one of the earliest and most iconic bottles designed by René Lalique for Coty, exemplifying the elegance and innovation of early 20th-century perfume design. Originally created in 1912 for Coty’s Muguet (Lily of the Valley) fragrance, this bottle soon became a standard presentation for many of Coty’s perfumes. Its most striking feature is the frosted glass double moth—or butterfly—stopper, delicately patinated in brown, which perches atop the bottle like a miniature sculpture in motion.
The flacon itself is deceptively simple in form: a square shape with straight yet slightly convex shoulders, a small neck, and an indented base. It measures just over 3 inches per side, with Lalique producing two height variations: 3.34 inches and 3.93 inches. Despite its restrained geometry, the bottle exudes refinement, particularly through the elegant stopper, which adds both artistry and tactile interest. Genuine Lalique examples are identified by the impressed intaglio-molded long-tail “LALIQUE” signature and an elongated oval indentation in the center of the base. These bottles were never marked “R. Lalique,” so collectors should be cautious of fake signatures applied to imitation bottles.
The Moth Stopper Flacon has been widely documented in major references on Lalique perfume bottles. It appears in Marcilhac’s R. Lalique Catalogue Raisonné (2011, French edition, page 929, reference “Coty 19,” photo 9), Utt’s Lalique Perfume Bottles (1990, page 26), and Jones-North, Commercial Perfume Bottles (1987, page 36), underscoring its significance as both a collectible piece and an exemplar of Lalique’s artistry for Coty. Its combination of understated form and sculptural stopper makes it a standout in any collection, embodying the early sophistication of Coty’s luxury perfume presentation.
In 1914, seeking a more cost-effective solution, Coty commissioned Baccarat to reproduce flacons based on René Lalique’s original designs. This decision caused a rupture in the friendship between Coty and Lalique, leading to thirteen years of silence between the two men. The partnership was eventually restored, and Lalique designed one final bottle for Coty in 1927.
The Baccarat bottles, which began production in 1916, are cataloged as mold number 307. They retain the signature elegance of Lalique’s designs but are slightly modified, featuring sloping shoulders rather than the straight shoulders seen on Lalique’s flacons. Genuine Baccarat examples are acid-marked “Baccarat” on the base and, like the Lalique originals, include an elongated oval indentation at the center of the base. These bottles stand approximately 3.25 inches tall and are documented in Addor Press’s “Baccarat: The Perfume Bottles” (1986), reference #307.
Despite this adjustment, Baccarat bottles remained relatively expensive. To further reduce costs, Coty began producing copies at his own French glassworks. These Coty-made bottles closely mirrored the Baccarat design, with the same sloping shoulders, but they differ in several key ways. The base is flat, lacking the oval indentation found on Lalique and Baccarat bottles, and they are marked “Coty” either in embossed glass or with an acid stamp. The Coty flacons held 1.6 ounces of parfum and typically measured 3.25 inches tall, though a smaller version of 2.75 inches also existed. These bottles were originally housed in green leather-covered boxes, emphasizing their luxury presentation despite the cost-saving measures.
The moth-stoppered flacon, with its frosted double-moth design, remained a centerpiece of Coty’s perfume line until its discontinuation in 1961, leaving behind a legacy as one of the most elegant and enduring designs in the history of commercial perfume bottles.
This bottle shape was adapted in 1916 originally for L'Origan for travelling by the usage of an inner glass stopper and a gilt brass screw cap, this bottle was made by Baccarat, model number 291. In 1928, these flat, square shaped crystal bottles were available in French leather cases. These bottles held Emeraude, Ambre Antique, L'Origan, Chypre and Paris. I have seen these bottles with L'Aimant labels too.
This Coty travel set from the 1920s features a compact poplar wood case covered in richly textured Moroccan-style paper, designed to safely house three elegant colorless crystal travel bottles. Each flacon is topped with its original brass capsule stopper, creating a harmonious and refined trio. The set includes the fragrances “L’Origan,” “L’Or,” and “Jasmin de Corse,” offering a representative selection of Coty’s most iconic early perfumes. Each bottle measures 7.5 cm, making this a beautifully preserved example of Coty’s luxury travel presentations of the period.
