Etui a Cigarette Presentation (1927)

The Etui à Cigarette presentation, introduced in 1927, offered a clever blend of elegance and practicality that reflected Coty’s flair for innovative packaging. The perfume was housed in a compact flacon standing 3⅛ inches tall, molded at Coty’s own glassworks and marked “Coty France” on the base. The bottle itself echoed the clean, modern lines typical of Coty’s late 1920s designs, making it visually refined while still suitably sized for daily use.

What set this presentation apart was its multifunctional outer box. Designed as an étui—a slim, protective case—it originally cradled the perfume but was intended to be repurposed once the fragrance was finished. After the bottle was removed, the box could be used as a cigarette case, giving it a second life as a fashionable personal accessory. This dual-purpose concept aligned with the era’s fascination with stylish smoking accoutrements and added a touch of novelty to the Coty line.

The Etui à Cigarette presentation remains an appealing example of Coty’s ingenuity, marrying practical design with decorative charm at the height of his company’s creative output in the late 1920s.

 Each bottle is slim, with sloping shoulders and fitted with a frosted glass stopper modeled as a small bundle of flowers. The domed stopper has gently rounded four edges.

Coty's refined and practical packaging style for its Étui and Cylindrical presentations—designs that reflected the brand’s commitment not only to beauty but also to functional elegance. These containers were crafted from chrome-tinted yellow paper, a material chosen for its subtle metallic sheen and warm golden undertone. This distinctive paper was then printed in brown and embossed with a delicate caned pattern, giving the surface both visual texture and a tactile, handcrafted quality.

The caned embossing created an appealing interplay of light and shadow, enhancing the illusion of woven material while maintaining the durability and structure needed for modern cosmetics packaging. The combination of the warm chrome-yellow base and the rich brown detailing produced a harmonious, understated palette—stylish without excessive ornamentation.

The overall impression, as noted at the time, was one of “neatness and usefulness.” Coty’s design struck a careful balance: elegant enough to feel special, yet practical enough for everyday handling and storage. These Étui and Cylindrical boxes exemplified Coty’s talent for elevating functional packaging into thoughtful, aesthetically pleasing design—adding charm and refinement to even the simplest product presentations.

Scents:

• Ambre Antique
• Chypre
• Emeraude
• Jasmin de Corse
• Heliotrope
• L'Aimant
• L'Or
• L'Origan
• La Rose Jacqueminot
• Muguet
• Oeillet France
• Paris

Metal Case Parfum Bottles (1928)

The Metal Case Parfum Bottles introduced around 1928 offered a stylish and portable way to carry Coty’s fragrances, combining decorative appeal with practical convenience. Designed as a purse-size presentation, each set featured the familiar banded bottle fitted with a frosted glass stopper, nestled securely within a custom metal case. These cases were available in two finishes: a crackle-effect surface, which gave a textured, slightly antiqued look, and a sleek platinum-tone nickel finish, offering a more modern, polished appearance.

Standing 2¾ inches tall, the case was compact enough to slip easily into a handbag while still providing sturdy protection for the glass bottle inside. The design was patented by Philip A. Reutter and produced by the Scoville Manufacturing Co., a firm known for its expertise in decorative and functional metal goods.

These metal-encased parfum bottles were discontinued in 1933, making surviving examples especially appealing to collectors today. The combination of Coty’s elegant banded flacon with a thoughtfully engineered and attractively finished carrying case reflects the brand’s attention to both aesthetics and usability during the late 1920s.

Cylindrical Frosted Stopper Bottles (1923)

The Cylindrical Frosted Stopper Bottles represent a refined evolution in Coty’s perfume bottle design, introduced as early as 1923. These flacons were primarily used for Chypre, L’Origan, Paris, and L’Effleurt, and are distinguished by their simple, cylindrical shape paired with a frosted glass stopper, a motif that had become a signature element of Coty bottles. Two distinct types of frosted stoppers are known to exist for this style, each subtly altering the bottle’s profile and visual character.

Produced in Coty’s own glassworks in France, the bottles are acid-stamped “Coty France” on the base, verifying their authenticity. They were made in a range of sizes, accommodating different volumes of perfume: 2.5 inches tall, 3 inches tall holding 0.80 oz, 3.25 inches tall, and 3.75 inches tall, allowing collectors and users to enjoy both small and larger versions for personal use or display.

The Cylindrical Frosted Stopper Bottles were packaged in several different styles of boxes. One notable version is a rectangular, paper-covered box with a lengthy legal and branding statement, emphasizing Coty’s ownership and the originality of the bottle, label, and packaging. It reads: “The bottle, label and box of this item have been registered in accordance with the law and are the property of Coty. This specialty and its accessories were created by Coty in factories at the Cité des Parfums in Suresnes near Paris (France). Our products are the exclusive property of Coty incorporated for the United States of America where they are manufactured. Counterfeits will be rigorously pursued. All our specialties are sold under the Coty name without any first name.”

The other box used was a cylindrical caning-patterned case with a circular aperture allowing the frosted stopper to protrude from the top. Coty's refined and practical packaging style for its Étui and Cylindrical presentations—designs that reflected the brand’s commitment not only to beauty but also to functional elegance. These containers were crafted from chrome-tinted yellow paper, a material chosen for its subtle metallic sheen and warm golden undertone. This distinctive paper was then printed in brown and embossed with a delicate caned pattern, giving the surface both visual texture and a tactile, handcrafted quality.

The caned embossing created an appealing interplay of light and shadow, enhancing the illusion of woven material while maintaining the durability and structure needed for modern cosmetics packaging. The combination of the warm chrome-yellow base and the rich brown detailing produced a harmonious, understated palette—stylish without excessive ornamentation.

The overall impression, as noted at the time, was one of “neatness and usefulness.” Coty’s design struck a careful balance: elegant enough to feel special, yet practical enough for everyday handling and storage. These Étui and Cylindrical boxes exemplified Coty’s talent for elevating functional packaging into thoughtful, aesthetically pleasing design—adding charm and refinement to even the simplest product presentations.

These cylindrical flacons combine understated elegance with practical functionality, reflecting Coty’s continued emphasis on artistry, authenticity, and careful branding during the 1920s.

Banded Bottles (1922)

The "Flacon Borne Ovale Perlée" or more commonly, the Banded Bottles, represent a distinctive line of Coty flacons, notable for their elegant simplicity paired with decorative detail. The Borne ovale perlée is an oval, pillar-shaped perfume flacon decorated with a border of small raised “pearl” beads, typically around the shoulders, edges, or framing the label area.

Each bottle features a subtle embossed band along the upper portion of the body, providing a refined accent that complements the frosted glass stopper, which is molded with delicate flower motifs and ridged textures. While these bottles have sometimes been misattributed to Lalique or Baccarat, they were in fact produced entirely by Coty’s own glassworks in France, and do not appear in the catalogs of either company.

At Coty’s Suresnes glassworks, the design process involved creating gilded bronze models or maquettes, serving as prototypes for the final glass flacons. These prototypes were produced in four sizes: 8.5 inches, 6.7 inches, 5.5 inches, and approximately 3.5 inches tall. For the parfum versions, the bottles were made in three small sizes—1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz, with corresponding heights of 2.25 inches, 2.75 inches, and 3.75 inches, respectively. The parfum line was discontinued in 1932, though the 1/4 oz miniature continued until 1934.

Larger versions of the Banded Bottles were also created for boudoir display, standing at 6 inches, 7.25 inches, and 8 inches, primarily intended to hold Eau de Toilette. These flacons were versatile and housed a variety of Coty’s most popular perfumes, including Eau de Coty, L’Origan, Chypre, Paris, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L’Aimant. A 3 oz version of the bottle was also produced, combining both practicality and elegance. The line is a testament to Coty’s approach of blending decorative design with accessible manufacturing, producing flacons that were both attractive and functional for a wide range of perfumes.

These bottles were discontinued in 1932. Old store stock continued to be sold for several years afterwards.

The parfum bottle was available in three sizes: 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz and 1 oz. The bottles were discontinued in 1932. The 1/4 oz bottle itself was discontinued in 1934.

Bottles stand:

• 2.25" tall - 1/4 oz
• 2.75" tall - 1/2 oz 
• 3.75" tall - 1 oz

Larger sizes of this bottle were also created for the boudoir, standing at 6" tall, 7.25" tall and 8" tall and hold Eau de Toilette. These bottles were also used for other Coty perfumes: Eau de Coty, L'Origan, Chypre, Paris, La Rose Jacqueminot and L'Aimant.

• 3 oz bottle.

The banded bottles with the metal screw caps were discontinued in 1937.

In 1927, the House of Coty Inc. took decisive legal action to protect its intellectual property and the integrity of its brand by filing suit against the T.C. Wheaton Company, a prominent glass manufacturer in Millville, New Jersey. This lawsuit emerged in the aftermath of a major counterfeiting case involving Richard E. Ives, who had been arrested for producing highly convincing—and fully illicit—imitations of Coty’s well-known ½-ounce L’Origan perfume presentation. Ives had duplicated the Coty package “in all details,” from the bottle to the label, resulting in products so accurate that they posed a direct threat to Coty's reputation for quality and authenticity.

During the investigation into Ives’s counterfeiting operation, evidence revealed that many of the bottles he used had been manufactured by T.C. Wheaton Co. Although Wheaton was a legitimate and respected glassworks, Coty alleged that the company knowingly produced bottles matching Coty’s patented design without authorization. The design in question was covered under Design Patent No. 63,351, protecting the specific form and decorative details of Coty’s “Flacon Borne Ovale Perlée”—the distinctive oval, pearl-beaded bottle used for Coty’s half-ounce perfume size. This patented form was not merely ornamental; it was a signature Coty silhouette, instantly recognizable on the market and deeply associated with the brand’s identity.

Coty’s formal complaint asserted that Wheaton had infringed on the company’s patent rights by manufacturing this bottle while fully aware that Coty owned the design. Coty claimed damages exceeding $100,000, a substantial sum at the time, arguing that Wheaton’s actions had materially contributed to the distribution of counterfeit Coty perfumes. Beyond monetary compensation, Coty also requested the court to grant the standard remedies for patent infringement, including injunctions preventing further unauthorized production.

This lawsuit highlights how fiercely Coty defended its designs, trademarks, and brand reputation during the early 20th century—a period when counterfeit cosmetics and perfumes were a persistent concern. It also underscores the importance of the “Flacon Borne Ovale Perlée” within Coty’s product line: a bottle so iconic and commercially valuable that protecting its form became a matter not only of aesthetics, but of business survival.

Briar Stopper Flacon (1911)

The Briar Stopper flacon is one of René Lalique’s elegant designs for Coty, first introduced in 1911. The bottle is characterized by its tall, clear glass body with a square base, a simple yet refined form that provides a perfect showcase for Lalique’s signature artistry. Its most distinctive feature is the frosted glass stopper, molded in a delicate “briar” motif, which lends a sculptural flourish to the otherwise clean-lined flacon.

Originally, the Briar Stopper was intended to house Eau de Toilettes, but its design proved so versatile that it was later adapted to accommodate a range of sizes, including miniature versions for parfum. Among the most collectible is the “Petite Modèle”, which debuted in 1936 and held 0.27 oz. Early 1920s packaging reflected Coty’s emphasis on elegance and care: the boxes contained printed messages advising owners that “These exquisite crystal flacons are hand-cut in the Paris ateliers of COTY – Care must be taken in placing them on the dressing table to avoid breakage of the corners.”

The Briar Stopper flacon was produced in an impressive array of sizes, ranging from tiny 2-inch miniatures (0.13 oz) to grand 8.75-inch showpieces. Other sizes included 2.5-inch (0.27 oz) Petite Modèle, 3-inch (0.60 oz), 4–4.25 inches (1.70 oz), 5–5.5 inches, 6–6.25 inches, and 6.5 inches, culminating in the 8.75-inch tall flacon. After 1920, production shifted to Coty’s own glassworks, allowing the design to be reproduced more widely while retaining the elegance of Lalique’s original concept. The Briar Stopper remains a celebrated example of early 20th-century perfume bottle design, admired for its clarity, sculptural stopper, and versatility across a range of perfume types and sizes.

Sizes:

• 2" tall miniature (0.13 oz)
• 2.5" tall miniature (0.27 oz) - Petite Modele
• 3" tall (0.60 oz)
• 4" tall
• 4.25" tall (1.70 oz)
• 5" tall
• 5.25" tall (3 oz)
• 5.5" tall
• 6" tall
• 6.25" tall
• 6.5" tall
• 8.75" tall

This rare set of three “eau de toilette” Briar Stoppered flacons, created for Coty in 1911, comprises elegant colorless glass bottles that are blown, molded, and lightly patinated to enhance their refined early 20th-century character. Each flacon features the distinctive briar-motif stopper, adding a sculptural touch to the otherwise simple cylindrical form. The trio is preserved in its original leather case, sized 12 × 11.5 × 4.5 cm, with each bottle standing 11 cm tall, making this an exceptional surviving example of Coty’s early luxury presentation sets.

 

An unusual version is tall, but, flat and slim, and stands 4" tall, the largest bottle stands 12.5" tall, it displays the typical frosted briar stopper and held Eau de Coty and other scents like Ambre Antique. Dates to about 1915-1925 or so.

Heliotrope Flacon (1911)

The “Heliotrope” flacon, also referred to as Coty Perfume No. 14, is an early and distinctive example of René Lalique’s artistry for Coty, first created in 1911 for the perfume Heliotrope. Its design departs from conventional rectangular or square bottles, adopting a roughly triangular form with elegantly canted corners along the base, giving the bottle both stability and a subtle sense of movement. The geometric precision is characteristic of Lalique’s work during this period, combining functionality with a refined aesthetic.

Over time, the Heliotrope flacon proved versatile and was used for a wide range of Coty fragrances, including Emeraude, L’Aimant, L’Origan, Styx, Chypre, Muguet, Jacinthe, Jasmin de Corse, La Rose Jacqueminot, and Paris. Its understated shape provided a neutral yet elegant canvas for these diverse scents, allowing the emphasis to remain on the perfume itself while maintaining a consistent, luxurious presentation. The bottle exemplifies Lalique’s ability to balance simplicity and artistry, creating a flacon that is both practical for use and highly collectible today.

Roseraie Package (1927)

The Roseraie Package, introduced by Coty in 1927, was a charming new presentation for the moth-stoppered flacon. The term “roseraie” is French for “rose garden,” suggesting a romantic, floral elegance that complemented the refined design of the bottle. In this updated packaging, the perfume was housed in a cardstock box covered with paper that mimicked the texture of brown suede, creating a tactile and visually appealing effect.

The front of the box was decorated with a small dotted circle enclosing the words “Coty Paris”, while fanciful ribbon motifs added a delicate, decorative flourish. This presentation was used for several of Coty’s signature perfumes, including Emeraude, L’Origan, Paris, and Chypre, unifying them under a cohesive and stylish packaging design.

Historical advertisements for these perfumes sometimes included inconsistent information regarding the bottle’s contents, citing 1 1/3 oz, 1 1/2 oz, or 1 3/4 oz. Such discrepancies were not uncommon at the time, reflecting the imprecision of early marketing materials rather than any change in the actual bottles. The Roseraie packaging stands out as an elegant example of Coty’s attention to visual presentation, blending understated luxury with a playful, romantic flourish.